We awoke to an incredibly clear, calm day. It was cold, yet the sun warmed us as we headed out for Portmagee, County Kerry. This is a small fishing port where we would meet Des Lavelle, owner of the Béal Bocht (Poor Mouth in Gaelic). He was a crusty old sea captain if ever I met one, with a charming wife by his side. The Béal Bocht is an oak boat, sturdy but slow. We were somewhat disappointed to find out that Des would not be taking us on our trip. The guy who took us was younger, but equally crusty with a constant 'roll-yer-own' cigarette hanging from his mouth. Maybe it was just me, but when he spoke I could swear we had Captain Barbosa on board. A hundred years ago, he would have been a pirate, I'm certain of it.
Skellig Michael (on the right) and Little Skellig (on the left) lie 8 miles off the coast line, Skellig Michael being a UNESCO World Heritage Sight. It rises 700ft. up from the sea with a monastic settlement on a cliff around the 600ft. level.
No comment....
We pulled into Blind Man's Cove, which is at the mouth of a cave that goes completely through the island, although I wouldn't want to go in there. This landing can be very treacherous in rough waters, so visiting the island depends completely on tidal conditions. At this point in the journey, although everyone else in our group was anxious, I was terrified. To reach the monastic ruins, we would be walking up over 600 steps, a stairway with no railing laid by monks in the 6th century. Oh boy.
This is a view of the stairs leading up to the ruins. Scary!
Annabelle holding my hand as we ascended. Two people have died from falling on these stairs, so I'm not taking any chances! I had my protector, my 12 year old granddaughter to take care of me. Doug, of course was taking a very unflattering picture of me. Thanks, honey!
This is called Christ's Saddle, the only fairly flat area to take a breather and have a snack.
The Wailing Woman...view of Little Skellig halfway up.
Cross carved by the Monks who lived here. All the steps, beehive cells and the monastery are original to the site. They have been perfectly preserved because of the remoteness of the island.
Gracie, Nathaniel and Mandy with Little Skellig in the background. The kids had no fear on this hike. I felt like such a wimp!
And we have arrived! These huts were built in the 6th century, by a monastic order seeking solitude and a more plain life in order to get closer to God. They lived in meager conditions, living off the sea, the bird life and a limited amount of vegetables that they could grow in a very small garden plot. All of the building you will see are done without mortar.
Only 12 monks lived here at a time. Here you see Jared taking pictures.
We felt such a sense of peace up here in this environment that had been such a place of refuge for those seeking a closer connection with God.
The graves of monks who perished here.
The High Cross of the settlement...
Imagine spending your life here in constant worship.
What would a visit to a monk colony be without a view of the 'facilities'?
This is a view of a hermitage from the settlement. One monk, feeling a need for more solitude, built a cell on a higher peak, living out his life in complete isolation.
Monks remained on Skellig Michael until the 11th century when climatic changes made living there unbearable, with colder temperatures and increased storms in the seas surrounding the island. A change in the Irish Church's structure also signaled an end to austere living. The monks removed to the mainland. Skellig Michael remained intact, becoming a place of pilgrimage for those wishing to experience the peace and solitude of this amazing place.
Before our descent, everyone (except me, of course) climbed to the top of the island. This gives you a better perspective of how very high we were.
Here you can see the dock where we started our hike...
View of Little Skellig from the dock at Blind Man's Cove.
Skellig Michael and Little Skellig are also a bird sanctuary with over 11 different types of birds breeding there every year, including puffins.
As we headed back, our captain took us by way of Little Skellig...
It's hard to see, but most of the white that you observe are actually birds. As we came around the island, our captain said, in his gravely pirate-sounding voice, " Now ya see here, dere are over 20 tousant birts on dis islant. I counted dem meself. I was bort..." We laughed politely...
It was an amazing day, truly the highlight of our trip.
I would be peeing my pants on that hike...but those views are spectacular, I can't imagine how they would actually be in person.
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